The last you all knew, we were in Puerto Montt, or maybe it was Coihayque.
Anyway, many moons on the bus later (two days after Puerto Montt) we arrived in Puerto Natales. We showed up at the good old Erratic Rock, which now has a downstairs bathroom (recently painted, and fully functional), and one of the upstairs bathrooms totally repaired, and looking fine (even if there is still a problem with wet floors. The wet floors don’t happen if you are used to Chilean retarded showers, but for everyone else... well I usually roll up my pant legs before walking into the bathroom). We didn’t have a reservation at Bill’s place, so every day we moved into a new room, and we weren’t even sure we had a bed until 6 or 8pm rolled around. The days in the far south are still long, but have shortened since I was here last). We had a very nice, relaxing time in Puerto Natales, although I did feel like a bit of a tool for not going to the park. It was just too much trouble, so y’know. We both have long futures ahead of us. We passed our time in town sleeping too late, taking naps, wandering around town, playing frisbee in the park etc. It was a great example of how fun it can be to do things you could easily do at home while thousands of miles away. The Doc really liked that part of Patagonia too, and understood why I was upset at the prospect of ending up in Punta Arenas rather than Puerto Natales for our rest and relax session.
We had a nice time celebrating his birthday for four days, and then we got on a bus headed for Ushuaia, Argentina. This is the most Southern city in the world. There are other communities further south, but as far as a verifiable, proper city goes, Ushuaia is it. There are many Germans and old people here, but we rather like it. Also, we had to cross the Magellan Straight to get here.
The landscape is really rather remarkable. The city is surrounded by a bay that turns into the Beagle Canal, and then on the other side mountains. Perhaps the mountains aren’t that high, I am not really sure because they are so close. The city is the city, and then it is the mountains. There aren’t really foothills, maybe just a couple tiny ones on which the city is perched, and then BAM beautiful, craggy mist shrouded mountains. It is stunning. It is pretty cold here, but maybe it is warming up a little. Or maybe we are just growing accustomed. Regardless, it may still be said that the coldest winter is summer in Ushuaia :)
Yesterday, we enjoyed our first proper day in Ushuaia with a boat tour of the bay and Beagle Canal. We of course chose the cheapest tour on the oldest boat. The boat was fantastic, and had lovely amounts of character. The Doc and I fantasized about turning it into the boat house (not house boat) that we tour the world in. Perhaps something a tiny bit larger would be better for the open seas, but the boat really was lovely. We took a cup of tea on board, and then headed up to the top deck, where we became sufficiently windblown. Then we headed to the downstairs, indoor viewing room. I admired waves, and a very cute baby admired us. We occasionally headed out to the front of the boat to see sea lions. Funny to be in this part of the world looking at those things I don’t even bother going to Pier 39 to see. Though, it was nicer to see them in these circumstances, somehow. We also saw a large number of Real Cormorants. But no penguins. I don’t know what we are going to do about Penguins. I hope we find a few. Somehow. After the boat ride, we headed to the Museo del Fin del Mundo. We read a bunch of stuff about Tierra del Fuego, saw the recovered bits of some sunken ships, and admired trinkets made by the prisoners that once called this place home. Then I got a really corny stamp in my passport, to verify that I have indeed been to the end of the world!
After all of that was done, we went to a restaurant and had a bite to eat. I have now eaten meat two nights in a row. I actually like lamb, which makes things easier for The Doc, as we can eat more cheaply if we share, and he gets tired of fish (as do I). So, I suppose I will continue to eat lamb, but only in the name of saving money.
The hostel we stayed in last night was the worst Hostel I have ever been in. Full of loud, smoking, self righteous travel-snobs. The hostel remained disrespectfully noisy until after 2-am. We left without speaking to anyone at 10 this morning, and moved to another hostel that is supposed to be the best in the city. Thus-far, my impressions are great. This place is called Antarctica. It has nice hangout space, a open, clean kitchen, a library, and super friendly staff. We are happy thus-far. It also seems like with the setup of the place things could go on until all hours of the night without ruining our lives, or our unholy need to wake up early. There is a tango show tonight, and cocktails served in house. It doesn’t seem too expensive either. We are both old and boring, so we are happy not to have to worry about going out if we desire a night cap.
After finding the new hostel, we went to Aerolineas Argentinas and found two tickets to Buenos Aires for Thursday. Only about 100 each, which is way better than we thought they’d be. The plane tickets are probably cheaper than bus travel would be. Oh it is so nice to be out of Chile and far enough away from its darn airline monopoly. I think I may like Argentina better. My first impression was poor, but my second impression is great.
After getting the plane tickets, we secured a reservation in a nice looking hostel in Buenos Aires for four nights. Then The Doc and I rented a car for tomorrow (only $40) so that we can go for a drive to the national park here. We hope to stay out late enough to try to observe some stars. After that, I bought The Doc a pocket Spanish/English dictionary, and then we printed out a star map of the Southern Hemisphere for February! Later we are going to go shopping for snack food for tomorrow, and then we will be so set for our day of adventure with a car tomorrow.
Anyhow, I have been using the free computer for too long now, so I have to go. I send much love to all of you at home, and although I know things are difficult, I want you all to know that I am thinking of you constantly, and especially to you, Uncle Dick, I am trying to send beautiful mental images of the amazing things we have been seeing. I love you all. xoxoxo.
ahhh...you always know when i am desperate for a long post.
xx
m
Posted by: mamacita | February 22, 2006 at 08:42 AM
santa cruz doesn't sound nearly as exciting as argentina
give it some love for me
amelia
Posted by: amelia | February 22, 2006 at 01:28 PM